alex’s “no-frills” nyc
alternatively titled, happy 1-year-anniversary-living-in-NYC to me!
(ok, actually 1 year and 2 months.)
First, please don’t call me a foodie.
Second, I dislike taking up space that is unsolicited. I never mean to impose my taste on yours, and I don’t think my taste is anything special. But I do receive the cold DM, “Alex, I’m going to be visiting NYC! Where should I go?” at least once a week. I’m very flattered that you reach out to me of all people when I’ve lived here for just over a year. (You associate me–a born and raised Angeleno–with New York? You trust me for recs?)
I usually just recommend Kopitiam, and I do wish I had more thoughtful list of recommendations to give you. So, here I am, taking the time to gather my thoughts on everywhere I’ve eaten in NYC in the past year. This list is not definitive, and I do not claim to have discovered any of these cuisines or places. Many of these places have existed to years in their communities. This is just me, celebrating my first year in NYC and the places that have made it feel more like home.
What does “no-frills” mean?
“no-frills” means one or more of the following :
It’s BYOB and walk-in only.
You are served by aunties/uncles/grannies.
This place becomes whatever meal or whatever mood, regardless of the time of day or with whom you are eating.
“no-frills” does not just mean “cheap.” It is not appropriate to associate particular cuisine from communities of color with “cheap:” “cheap” food is then implied vis-a-vis as “cheap labor,” “unkempt conditions,” or “dirty people.” This discourse becomes especially problematic when we do not question paying $$ at a trendy Western restaurant, but then we are aghast when the mom-and-pop shop around the corner increases their prices by a dollar. Food is food, and labor is labor. Granted, none of the places on this list are exorbitantly expensive. The lowest cost on this list is <$5 and the highest is ~$30. (I am a student living on savings!)
For every “no-frills” place on this list, there was a place that did not make the cut because it was a little too frilly or little too sceney. Or it did not make the cut because I need to visit again to try more on the menu before I can confidently recommend it.
Jump to: Manhattan | Queens | Brooklyn
Want to have my “no-frills” list on-the-go? Save my Google Maps list here.
If you would like to support more of my no-frills in nyc , then please consider buying me a coffee!
I did contemplate putting some aspect of this list behind a very small paywall (~$1-5), whether that would have been the full guide or just the Google Maps link. But in the end, monetizing just felt wrong. I’m not food critic or travel guide. I don’t want to gatekeep. I’m not trying keep a secret. Many of these places are well-known in their respective communities. These are all recommendation I would give freely to any friend.
Yet, as someone who has grown up denying themselves of a creative identity, I’d like to show myself that my creative labor and personal time spent researching, compiling, writing, and editing this list doing this for myself…is also of value to others. And I would appreciate to have a little extra means to continue to update the list throughout the year. So, I’m not gonna say it would mean or change the world for me…but if you do have the means, your tips would enable me to continue to make NYC my home.
Manhattan
Half of the no-frills list is in Manhattan because unfortunately I live in Manhattan.
(ordered #1-11 going uptown, not in order of preference.)
Malaysian cafe
Every time someone asks me what my favorite place is in Manhattan, I automatically say Kopitiam. I’m surprised @kopitiamnyc hasn’t blocked me yet because I tag them so much. This is my go-to spot for everyone visiting me because Malaysian often is not something everyone has tried. My go-to formula here is sharing 2 savory and 2 sweet for 2 people. And at this point, I’m not sure what’s better: the college friend reunions, url-to-irl friend first dates, or the Oh Chien (oyster omelette) that I’ve had here. It’s most likely the combination of the core memories and tasty food have that have made Kopitiam my favorite spot in Manhattan.
What to order: weekend/seasonal specials (Hokkien Mee if it’s on the menu), Oh Chien (you have to get this. I get this everytime), a bag of fresh, sweetened soy milk, honeycomb cake, cassava cake, sticky rice with pandan butter.
2. —redacted Chinatown bakery and coffee shop—
$1 sponge cakes
The following is was my $20 Chinatown errand routine: 1) bring $20 cash 2) drop off a roll of film at Eliz Digital ($12 low-res scans, $16 high-res scans) 3) buy purple sweet potatoes at HK supermarket for my silly sweet potato recipe (usually less than $2/llb) 4) spend the rest of my cash on $1 pound cakes and $3 iced coffee at —redacted Chinatown bakery and coffee shop— to sip on my way back home. I no longer plan to support wage theft cakes.
I’m usually not a fan of one-note desserts, that is–in my head, why would I eat a dessert with one texture? Sponge. But these sponge cakes deliver more than one dimension for $1. They’re airy but chewy, not-too-sweet, and come in a variety of flavors.
What to order: Green tea or Pandan sponge cake, Viet Iced Coffee or Iced Hong Kong Milk Tea
3. Yin Ji Chang Fen (Chinatown)
Cantonese
I loved my first visit, but I wasn’t initially going to place this rice roll restaurant on the list because I felt that I needed to try the several other rice rolls places in Chinatown to compare. The second time I walked in though made me realize that I’m probably just going to continue walking into Yin Ji. On my second visit, I was taking around two good friends on a book store crawl, and we ended up needing a snack around 4pm. We were close to Chinatown, and I knew a place we could walk in for a meal at this odd time of day. We were seated immediately, the rice rolls were even tastier than the previous time, and the restaurant had introduced a new seasonal menu, thereby cemeting Yin Ji on my list.
What to order: I like how they offer very traditional and newer takes on the classic rice roll. (Yes, you should order the mushroom truffle rice roll.) All the portions are hefty. A good rule of thumb is share as many dishes (rice rolls + congee) as there are people.
Instead of waiting in an extravagant line waiting to get your Timothee Chalamet bagel (aka Tompskins Square Bagel), you should line up at Punjabi Deli to take then to eat at Tompkins Square Park. I unintentionally ate here by myself for my birthday lunch–ergo “You can make it into whatever meal or whatever mood, regardless of the time of day or with whom you are eating.”
What to order: Chaat! Samosa! for ~$5!
Sri Lankan, BYOB
I will put a disclaimer: I have only been here once. But I will say any place I’ve only been to once on this list is a place that I can’t wait to return. In fact, I promised the server that I would come back with a large group of my friends because Sigiri is a place I was texting my friends about as I started eating the food.
You will be better off, asking the server what to order. We ordered, the server made a face, and we asked her to order for us. I think to describe the food as a mixture between the countries to which it is geographically closest would do it a disservice. Sri Lankan cuisine deserves to be acknowledged on its own grounds. I will say it’s heavily spiced (but in a well-rounded way), absolutely like nothing I’ve eaten before (in taste and texture), and best washed with cold beer (did I mention it is BYOB?). I was actually looking up flights to Sri Lanka while eating. When it came around to dessert, our server apologized that certain items were not available due to supply issues and Sri Lankan economic crisis. After dessert, I raved to her about how I’ve never tasted food like this before, and how I can taste her family’s traditions. She started tearing up. And that’s why I know I have to go back and made good on my promise.
What to order: Kotthu Roti, Deviled Seafood, and whatever your server tells you to try. Oh, and for dessert–Kiri Pani.
Korean
This is the only Korean food that I’ll recommend in Manhattan. It’s been really disappointing moving here and comparing the Korean food to LA’s Ktown, which stretches a whole neighborhood–not just one street. I recommend Cho Dang Gol because it is different than any Korean restaurant I’ve been to in LA too. Cho Dang Gol makes their own tofu, which is served at the beginning of the meal as a banchan. When I first had their tofu, I was inspired to make my own. (I have a tofu press kit, soybeans, and everything now…ready to go.. I just…haven’t…actually sat down and done it.) Their placemat educates you on this season’s produce most used in Korean cooking–and you know how my California roots <3 feel about seasonal cooking <3. They give a generous spread of banchan. (Koreans will judge a restaurant solely based on the banchan served.) This past May 2022, I took my grandma here, and she agreed that Cho Dang Gol makes authentic dishes that even LA Koreatown doesn’t offer.
What to order: I would go for their lunch special, which I think is a considerably better deal than their dinner menu.
Like I have non-negotiables in my recipes, I will give you a non-negotiable order for Cho Dang Gol. First, the perilla seed soon tofu (). I had never had soon tofu made with ground perilla seed, and it opened up a whole new window into Korean food for me. I’ve bought a hot stone pot now. It’s ready to go.. I just…haven’t…actually sat down and done it.) Yes, this is my toxic trait.
What else should you add to your order? 1 seafood scallion pancake and a Seafood hot pot. This combination is my go-to order to share with my grandma at any Korean restaurant.
7. Wondee Siam (Hell’s Kitchen)
Isaan Thai
If I see you ordering pad thai, then we can’t be friends </3. Because if you order pad thai, which you can order anywhere!!!, you will be missing out on Wondee’s diverse other offerings and best dishes. Wondee is tiny, but I’ve come at peak time on a Friday with a group of 5, and I was still able to be seated within 30 minutes. It’s BYOB, but don’t get too rowdy because the aunties here are so sweet.
What to order: Squid in love, Catfish salad.
8. Church of Sweden (Midtown East)
Swedish cafe
Tucked away behind large paneled wooden doors, the Church of Sweden is run by the Swedish government as a cultural home away from home for local and visiting Swedes. The space is welcoming of everyone though. It’s an excellent co-working or study space with plentiful outlets and minimal chatter. In fact, the only chatter you will hear is the staff talking to each other in Swedish. Bonus? They also sell a slew of Swedish pantry goods and paraphernalia. (The beautiful upstairs with stained glass is currently under construction, so head downstairs instead.)
What to order: kardemummabullar (Swedish cardamom bun)
Japanese Izakaya
I’ve been told by multiple people that Tomi Jazz is a wonderfully intimate date spot. As the story goes, I wanted to go here with my Ex when he visited, but we didn’t have time. So, I went here on a first date instead. We stood outside, waiting in line for 1.5 hour and divulging childhood trauma. By the time we were seated, the vibe had been checked, and we tacitly agreed that it would be drinks and dinner.
You’re probably like–Alex? A 1.5 hour wait time is frills! And I’ll tell you: go with a friend that you haven’t seen awhile, so that the wait time becomes catch up time. (You could also go on an early-in-the-game date!) And I promise that, by the time you make it inside, you will forget that you waited that long because Tomi Jazz has curated quite the immersive environment with live jazz every night. (If you make the first seating at 5pm, you won’t have to wait. No cover during the weekdays.)
What to order: Mentaiko Pasta
Fishmonger
You know about my whole fish era. Now meet my fishmonger. His selection is nothing special. But he is my fishmonger, so I thought I would give him a shoutout because he’s Korean.
What to order: I usually go later in the day, when he’s sold out of most fish, so I get a ~1.5 llb branzino (~$20/lb) that is enough to feed 2-3. He also has good lunch special sushi deals I’ve heard.
Vietnamese
I stumbled onto this place after my college friend and roomie Jack, who was visiting, and I had walked from one corner to the far opposite corner of Central Park. Our only plans for the day was to catch up with one another. I didn’t make any specific plans because I knew the day was already going to be lovely, spending in each other’s company. Anything else that came along our way would just be an added bonus–a new memory to add to our collection together. We ordered at the counter and then shared summer rolls and a shrimp banh mi in the park. (There’s no seating at the shop.)
My rule of measure for Vietnamese food is: would my stepdad approve of this? (My stepdad is Viet.) I think he would say it can’t compare to SGV because the baguette could be crustier. But otherwise, I think he would approve.
What to order: I really like that they offer a wide variety of banh mi. It’s a place that I would return and try a new sandwich each time.
Thai
Bangklyn is a one-man shop. The one-man is the owner, the chef, and a vintage clothing collector. Yes, you read that right. When you enter, on your right, you’ll find one man taking orders at the counter while a large flame fires underneath his wok. The back wall is decorated with collared shirts, jumpsuits, and sweaters. The idea of a Thai restaurant-cum-vintage clothing collection run by a lone man is zany enough to be fictional. It could be a Murakami novel. And yet, it is very real. A very real reminder that that older, Asian generations–those we often see as silent and selfless American Dream chasers with no time for frills–are people too. They are people with hobbies and possessions.
(I am not sure if the clothing is for sale. I was too scared to ask.)
What to order: Like at Wondee, if I see you ordering pad thai, we can’t be friends. Why would you order a dish you could order anywhere? A dish that you’ve had countless number of times…… when the menu offers so many curries, noodles, soups, and mains that you’ve never tried! I had the ____ . I would recommend going for lunch: lunch special entrees are ~$10.
A “no-frills” list in which there’s more places in Manhattan than Queens?! Yeah, I know–it doesn’t seem right. But that’s because when I want to eat in Queens…I just go to Abuqir.
(ordered #13-18 going East, not in order of preference)
Egyptian, Seafood
Did you notice how I specifically said Kopitiam was my favorite place in Manhattan? Because my favorite spot in the five boroughs is…..Abuqir! I’ve been gatekeeping Abuqir for the past year not because I want to keep it to myself. I haven’t told you about it because a single IG story post cannot do justice to the Abuqir experience. Abuqir deserves better. Abuqir needs to be understood, narrativized, and immortalized in a blog post as such.
Abuqir is a place where you enter and you expect to be approached as “My brother!” except you won’t…because you most definitely stick out amongst the rest of the families that eat here. There’s no menu. It’s a place someone who has been before takes you and you learn what to order. You go up to the icy counter of fresh seafood and point out which branzino you want or how many lbs of scallops. And then you tell them exactly the way you want it cooked. But most likely, the man behind the counter will frown and then he will order for you.
I’d like 3 branzinos, blackened, please.
No, I’m going to give it to you: one blackened, one lemon and evoo, and one with tomatoes, onions, and potatoes.
Ok.
– An actual interaction circa December 2020
The side salad, dips, and bread round out the cooked-to-order seafood. I’m scared to ask if I can BYOB because I’m afraid they will get mad at me, and I will be too embarrassed to come back. When you ask for the check, it never itemized. But it’s a number scribbled on a piece of paper. It’s a running joke that our meal here always ends up costing ~$30pp, which is an absolute deal for the amount and quality of food we order.
Abuqir is the reason why my Queens list is shorter than Manhattan. Because if we make the trek (which is really not a trek) to Queens, we usually just end up at Abuqir. It used to be an occasion (e.g., celebrating the end of anatomy, when a friend is visiting), but now it’s become my casual, go-to restaurant. Abuqir is the place I will hype up, the place that perfectly explains in an anecdote why food in Queens is better than Manhattan and why the diversity of food in NYC reaches wider than in LA.
What to order: My friends and I have perfected our order for all group sizes. We usually come here in a group of 8-10 people, so this is what we order for 8-10 and exactly how we order it: “2-3 branzinos (one lemon and evoo and one with tomatoes, onions, and potatoes), fried calamari, fried sardines, grilled shrimp, all 3 eggplants dips/side dishes, 2 large salads.”
If n=6, then subtract “2 branzinos (one lemon and evoo and one with tomatoes, onions, and potatoes), fried calamari, grilled shrimp, all 3 eggplants dips/side dishes, 1 large salad.”
If you can’t rally a crowd, come with at least 4 people, and order “1 branzino (blackened if it’s your first time but I prefer it with tomatoes, onions, and potatoes), shrimp, all 3 eggplant dips/side dishes, 1 large salad.” The hot and inflated pita bread is complimentary. There, I’ve taught you how to order at Abuqir.
If n<4, make more friends, so you can order more. Or hit me up and I’ll be there.
(Grab a lemon-mint Schweppes soda in the beverages fridge near the cashier. It’s a non-negotiable that is perfect sugar kick before the meal or the perfect palette cleanser through the meal.)
14. Al Sham Sweets & Pastries (Astoria)
Middle Eastern Bakery
Abuqir is stop A, and Al Sham is stop B. You cannot make an Abuqir trip without baklava, cakes, and pastries from Al Sham as well. We started off, trying all the baklava flavors: mixed nut, pistachio, walnut,...there’s one that actually tastes like cinnamon toast crunch?! We later branched out and tried rice puddings and cakes.
Just a couple weeks ago, I actually googled the best baklava in NYC. Lo’ and behold I had already eaten the best baklava. Both Al Sham and Gulluoglu were on the list. It’s cash only.
What to order: What’s our go to order now? The kunefe + half pound of baklava. We usually just pool whatever cash we have on hand together and spend it on sweets. We always trust them to choose the variety of baklava for us.
Venezuelan
Arepas Cafe was the second place I ever ate at in Queens, and it cemented to me….again exactly why food in Queens will always be better than food in Manhattan: homey ambiences and portions well worth their price points. Their arepas are erupting with filling. (I couldn’t believe how many shrimp they managed to fit in my arepa.)
What to order: I really don’t think you can go wrong here. It’s a place where I would want to try a new arepa filling each time.
16. Momo Crave (Jackson Heights)
Nepalese
My roommate Jenn and I took a 11pm, hot girl walk last month, and she brought up that she had momos the other day in Jackson Heights….that simply weren’t as good as Momo Crave. She noted that she thought the Momo flavors were more “interesting.” She preferred how Momo Crave ladled a yogurt sauce and spiced stewed chickpeas on top. And now, all she could think about was going back to Momo Crave. I probed her, “Do you hear yourself? Do you remember ever talking about food this way?” (My roommate, who previously did not eat out much before moving to NYC, has told me that she has gained a new appreciation of and more inquisitive relationship with eating, making, sharing food….) She smiled, and we agreed we would go get Momos soon.
What to order: Sandeko Momo, Chaat Momo. Momo Crave offers vegetarian and meat options for all their momo options!
17. Tong NYC (Jackson Heights)
Bangledeshi
On the corner of 73rd St and 37 Av, there exists “Two [fuschka carts], both alike in dignity” with practically similar menus. Both have signs, touting they were the first Bengali street food cart on the block. Tong opened in 2018 while Fuschkahouse opened a year and a half later. Fusckha is a semolina-based dough, pinched into a shell, fried and then filled with split peas, potatoes, tomatoes, and served with a tamarind water sauce. Their warring tale has also been reported in the Times.
What to order: Fuschka and a mango or guava salad.
Indian
The weekend after my Cherry on Top pop up, I did not want to cook, clean dishes, or even look at the kitchen. I had cooked banchan and cake for three nights straight, and all I wanted was to be taken care of and fed. Since my grandma is all the way across the country, Queens was the closest I was going to get to a warm meal cooked by a knowing hands. We had planned to go to Yun Cafe, which I believe has now closed their Jackson Heights location, so we quickly opted for Angel down the street. I honestly was too tired to peruse the menu after a whole month of menu-planning myself. The staff was more than happy to make recommendations. I don’t know who was more amused: us or the servers. The servers lightheartedly cracked a joke every time they checked on us. In NYC, I’ve learned that I usually don’t take home leftovers because portions do run smaller, but among 4 people and 4 mains, roti, and naan, there were three more servings of leftovers to take home and share.
What to order: Paneer is made in-house. Cracking the bread that covers the biryani is an interactive bit to capture on camera. (We ordered the Vegetable Dum Biryani.)
19. Queens Night Market (Flushing)
Outdoor night market
Queens Night Market is the epitome of no-frills: bring a friend or friends (preferably with similar eating habits/preferences), strategize your meal, and trade off buying dishes (~$5 each) to share until you are full. In one meal, I had Afghan, Tibetan, Venezuelan, Japanese, Korean, Indonesian, and Malaysian food.
What to order: All the things.
Brooklyn
If I don’t spend at least one day in Brooklyn a week, I will feel ill. I feel guilty when I say I feel most at-home in BK because I know the BK that I frequent is not the BK that existed 10 years ago. I don’t want to seem like I am fetishizing the outcomes of gentrification–the expulsion of long-standing ethnic communities due to 20-something/30-something newcomers. (I would be repulsed if some newbie who only moved to LA a year ago said they feel most at home in East LA, by which they mean Echo Park/Silver Lake/Highland Park.) I know that the BK I roam has been heavily optimized, filtered, and curated, and that’s why many of the places I’ve been to in BK are NOT on this list. But the “frills” is not why I love BK. I love BK because I know feel most at-home there. When I exit the station or cross the bridge, I am finally able to take a viscerally deep breath. I can’t see mountains, but I can see the sky through the two-story buildings. I see people more comfortable in their skin. Specifically, I see my people–my friends outside of school. I’m able to shed this medical student identity that often feels all-encompassing. I feel more like myself. Friends always commend me for making it all the way out to Brooklyn to see them. Of course, I’ll take the L to feel a little more like me.
(ordered #20-#22, going East, not in order of preference)
20. Qahwah house (Williamsburg)
Yemeni Cafe
A cafe in Williamsburg? On a no-frills list? Yes, trust me. This is a cafe where you must get a drink and a sweet. Drinks are HEAVILY spiced with cardamom and ginger and sold by the pot, so that you can cut the richness of the honeyed pastries. If you sit by the bar at the window, you can bathe in the mid-afternoon sun too. (And the light will hit your camera just right.)
What to order: They are most famous for their Sabaya, which I have not tried! The Bint al Sahn was personally a touch too sweet for me. I love the pistachio basbousa. But truly all the sweets in the display case look so enticing that every time I return I feel as though I must try something new instead of repeating!
Ethiopian
Everyone wants to know where to start the night before you go out in Bushwick. I’ll tell you: Bunna. Bunna is great for groups; in fact, I’ve only been here with groups of 5+, You’ll eat communally with your hands, squeezing lentils between your injera. And you won’t even notice it’s all vegan. The mood is set from the moment you walk in: the incense is burning and a live DJ is usually spinning…what I’m assuming is…. electronic Ethiopian tracks.
What to order:. (1) Beyanetu Feast for 3, (2) Kedja Selata, and (3) Lentil Sambusas is more than enough for a party of 5-6. I’ve been here twice with a group of 6, and sharing everything , both times I’ve paid $20-something. There’s also good drink deals–regardless of happy hour!
22. Güllüoglu (Brighton Beach)
Turkish Baklava Cafe
Our friend Ahmet, who grew up in a neighborhood close to Brighton Beach, took us to Güllüoglu. He has visited Güllüoglu with his mother since he was a child. The shop imports their baklava from their Istanbul factory. We came at the end of the day, and their case was still well stocked.
What to order: The breadth of their menu (sour cherry baklava? Chocolate pistachio baklava?) will give you decision paralysis, but trust me: go for the double pistachio baklava. I don’t know how they incorporate the pistachio a second time, but they’re doing it right.
Please tag me @everythingalexcooks if you make it out to the places in the city that feel like home to me. I would love to know what you eat and think. And I’ll see you next year for more no-frills–for my 2nd-year anniversary in NYC!
